This year’s version of the Alberta Rockies 700 was a mixed bag. It had everything! Highs, lows, easy gravel, hard gravel, green single track, black single track, hike-a-bike, technical descents, clear skies, smoky skies, heat, and freezing cold…all within about 3 days.
I decided to do this ride just after I finished the Parkway
Yoyo Challenge. The link for that ride is below.
https://www.strava.com/activities/5546686881
Here are the links for the AR700 and Ride for the 751.
https://www.strava.com/activities/5800598384
https://www.strava.com/activities/5805821883
https://www.strava.com/activities/5808263265
It’s been a weird year with COVID and events, so I’ve been
doing mostly personal challenges. But the race fit well into my schedule, so I
decided to go for it. I had some fitness built up from the Yoyo and had five
weeks until the race. One more training block, then race time!
This year I was going to make my old Kona Unit into a gravel
bike, so I had bought a pair of 700x50 Maxxis Ramblers. When I decided to do
the AR700, I thought I would put them on my Rollingdale to give them a try. With
the lower rolling resistance of the tire compared to 2.35 Maxxis Ikons I
thought maybe I could put on a higher single speed gear ratio. I did a few test
rides with the Ramblers and a 32x15 ratio on the prairie gravel roads and they
were working great! This lulled me into a state of delusion thinking these
tires would allow me to run 32x16 during the race. That would have been a BIG
mistake! After looking at the amount of climbing, I decided to use 32x18 and
that was still too high! Looking back, I should have chosen 32x20 with the amount
of steep climbs on the course. I walked a LOT! Anyway, my final set up was my titanium
Rollingdale with 700x50 Maxxis Ramblers and a 32x18 single speed ratio.
We (meaning Kristin) booked a hotel in Canmore and the race
was set! We arrived Friday afternoon and did a quick shakedown ride to the brewery
where the other riders were having a meet-up. After chatting a bit, we went
back to the hotel and got some sleep.
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| Big group at the start. Photo by Kristin |
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| Including 4 Rollingdales. Photo by Kristin |
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| Ready to go! Photo by Kristin |
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| AR700 route |
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The race was on! Photo by Kristin |
The race was on and we started with a climb up the dusty gravel road out of Canmore. I chatted a bit with Neil from Canmore and after that was basically on my own.
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Spray Lakes in the morning |
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They will have to get out of the way |
The High Rockies Trail spit me out onto the nice smooth paths
of Peter Lougheed Park. Time to eat! I snacked away and Steve rode up beside me.
We talked a bit and I think he turned off to go to the Boulton Creek Store. I’ve
passed that store on a number of rides like this and never stopped there. It always
seems too close to the start. The paved paths turned into some double track with
some steep pitches. Back to walking. I talked to some hikers trudging up the
same hill and they expressed disbelief that we were going so far in the same
day. Riding 250-300km of rough trail is not normal? I guess not.
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| Delicious road glaze |
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| Sheep selfie! Look at my concentration in taking the picture! |
I saw a few groups of sheep and kept my standing rhythm. Then Steve rolled up. He said he was creeping up on me for about 45min. It was nice to chat again and top the crest of the summit with him.
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| Steve! Looking strong! |
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| Obligatory summit photo. |
After the summit Steve pulled away and I started eating again.
It was a nice, long descent where I could rest in the aero bars and snack away.
When going 40-50kph, you periodically get smacked by bugs. On
this descent I had a big bug smack me in the chest and get caught in the front
of my jersey. I went to brush it away and then it stung me! It must have been a
wasp or bee! I felt the pain spread through my chest and was wondering if I would
swell up. I have been stung by bees before when I was a kid and did not have
bad reactions, so I wasn’t too worried. But I did wonder if the bug was still
in my jersey somewhere. The pain lasted for a little while, then dissipated. It
must have been a wasp.
After the long descent, I came to the Highwood Store. I
planned on getting some water and a snack. I went in the store to use the
bathroom first and saw a sign to get the key and it’s for customers only. Someone
came out and gave me the key and I looked at the clerk. I mentioned I would be
buying something and went in. While I was using the bathroom, I could hear the
clerk complaining about how she doesn’t like non-customers using the bathroom
and I felt bad about going in before buying something. After I was done, I gave
the key back and she sternly took it from me. After I got some water and snacks,
she warmed up to me a bit. She was very protective of her bathroom!
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| Dusty roads! Unenthusiastic yay! |
I settled into a rhythm and waited for the other riders at the store to catch me. Sure enough they did one by one. Steve and Tim caught me later in the evening and we rode together for a while.
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| It was great chatting with these two! |
Eventually we came to the right turn where the 500km riders
part ways with the 700km riders. There is a campsite there and Tim and Steve
decided to stop for some reason. I kept riding. The racer instinct in me was
happy to hopefully gain some ground.
My plan for this race was to try riding through the night
and sleeping the second night a little bit. The hope was that I would not feel
too tired the first 30-40 hours of no sleep, then with a 2-3 hour rest, I could
finish the race feeling somewhat alert. Didn’t work.
Anyway, I kept on pedalling to Coleman. By the time I got
there, it was dark and I had to find the 7-11. Alister and I stopped a couple of
times to use Google Maps and eventually found the store. I got a couple of dry
taquitos (gross) and refilled water. Everyone else was talking about stopping
and I wanted to keep on riding. I saw that the lead riders had stopped and I
had a chance to catch them. I left the store and stopped a ways down the road
to call Kristin. We talked a bit, then I was off hoping to drop the other
riders who were stopping for the night in Coleman. That didn’t work either.
So off I pedalled into the night full of liquids and taquito
paste. Then the sleep monster started to rear its ugly head. I was nodding off
so decided to stop to take a quick nap. I had just laid down and started to go
into lala land, then heard voices. I jolted out of my stupor, jumped to my feet,
and started walking again (it was a steep pitch for 32x18). Kyle and Theo were
chatting and steadily climbed past me. They looked so clean!
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| Pictures never do it justice. |
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| It keeps going... |
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| And going... |
After what seemed like an eternity, I got to the top. What a view! Even with the smoke!
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| Finally! |
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| It was a bit overgrown in parts (those who rode it know this is an understatement). |
The trail evolved into double track as it meandered through
the Flathead. Lots of bears in the Flathead, they say. I have been in this area
during the Tour Divide and including this time, saw lots of scat but no bears… thankfully.
This time, I may have had a close encounter. I had stopped for some reason, heard
a grunt noise, and saw some branches move just off the trail… about 10 feet away!
Close! I thought I saw a dark shape move away but I had been awake for close to
28 hours and typically start seeing things at this point, so I didn’t know if it
was real. I started loudly asking the grunt in the woods if it was big or
small. Taking no chances, I started blowing my whistle and took out my bear
spray. I moved away with no incident. I’ll never know if that was a bear or
some small woodland creature, but small woodland creatures don’t typically make
deep grunting noises.
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| Majestic cabin of the Butts |
I had cleaned up in a stream a little earlier so took this as
a break to take off my warm layer and add some sunscreen. It was starting to
get hot! The next climb was Cabin Pass. This is part of the Tour Divide route,
so I knew it was a “nice” climb. Nothing too steep. I felt a bit tired at one
point so took a 5-10min nap. On and on I rode having fond memories about the
Tour Divide. It was raining on the Tour Divide when I rode this last time, so I
was happy to have nice weather this time.
I got to the top of the pass and knew I needed some water. The
last few blue lines on my eTrex that are usually streams were just a bunch of rocks,
so I was running low. After the big descent, I got to a big river and filled up
my bladder and bottle. I was pretty thirsty and was not looking forward to waiting
the 30min for my Aquatabs to work.
As I was packing up, Steve rolled up! I am always happy to see
Steve, but this time it was a bit disheartening because I thought I would put a
gap between the other riders by going through the night. We chatted a bit and I
started up the climb out of the river valley. Once 30min passed and I was able
to drink, I drank… too much. I gulped it down as if I hadn’t drank water for a
week. There was a short hike up a steep pitch and at the top, I felt a wave of
almost-nausea hit me. I felt weak and not so good in the belly. I probably
drank too much with not enough food in my stomach. I stood for a minute and Steve
passed me. Then another rider rolled by. I slowly crept along with my gut rot. A
while later I stopped and checked my phone. I had a signal, so I called Kristin
to vent my woes. I took a few minutes and then started slowly rolling again. I
forced some food down and only sipped water even though I felt like chugging
it. I knew it would work itself out eventually. And, eventually it did after some
time and a good drenching sick-sweat. The trail through the Wigwam Forest was
gentle and quite beautiful. I wish I took a few pictures, but I was distracted by
my sick feeling.
It was starting to get late, and it was getting a bit ridiculous
about how long I was awake. I had only taken a couple of 10min naps in about 40
hours. I thought I would bivy somewhere when it got dark, but the idea of a
hotel in Fernie sounded pretty good. I decided to keep going until I got there.
It wasn’t too far. How hard could it be? Famous last words.
The last 16km of the route leading into Fernie ended up being
single track. It was nice single track, but too pitchy for me and my 32x18 ratio.
I found some flow in some sections, but many of the sections, I had to get off
and walk, ride a short bit, then get off to walk again. Also, much of the
single track was traversing a steep hill. In the dark, I had no idea how far
down it went, but it seemed like I was riding along this ribbon on the edge of
the abyss. I was in no state to push my MTB skills, so I crept my way along walking
and timidly rolling along what felt like a cliff edge. That 16km took forever.
I finally rolled into Fernie about 12am. The route took me
past a sports field and I almost got hit in the head by an automatic sprinkler
spray. That would have been unpleasant. I wasn’t cold, but I didn’t want to get
soaked either. Over the last few hours, the single track, need for sleep, and
the time it took to go such a short distance put me in a negative mood. I know
these moods come and go so I knew it would pass. And I knew a bit of sleep would
help tremendously.
I wanted to get a hotel so looked in the area. No vacancy
everywhere. I found a hostel-like establishment and talked to a friendly drunk
guy outside. He said there was rooms and to talk to the guy at the desk. I did
and after a loooong wait found out all they had were “pods”. I wasn’t sure
exactly what a pod was but it didn’t have a shower, so I turned him down. I decided
I would keep riding and bivy in the dirt somewhere out of town. My bitter mood
continued.
I got to the 7-11 muttering in my mind how much of a waste
of time the hotel searching was. I met Jocelyn here and we had the same plan of
riding for a while, then sleeping somewhere. I went in for some food and guess
what they had? Taquitos!!! Blech. I choked a couple down then noticed they
actually did have some fresh sandwiches. Tuna and egg salad did not sound appetizing
for breakfast, but the chicken wrap did. I picked it up and started down the road.
I rode into the night examining every bush and tree for it’s
bivy-worthiness. About 2am just before Hosmer, I found a patch of trees and
grass I could hide behind and sleep for a bit. I rolled out the bivy and
crashed hard.
I woke up about 2.5 hours later and heard a bike roll by. I
guess that’s my cue to get up. I packed up and ate my chicken wrap. Tasty! Much
better than dry taquito mash! Tim rolled up and said he took an alternate and
was out of the race. Too bad! We rode down the highway for a bit. It was busy!
It must have been people on their way to work. I was glad I had two rear
lights.
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| My nettle friend along the Coal Discovery Trail |
The smoke was thicker in this part of BC. I noticed it, but it wasn’t bothering me much. I got into Sparwood and got some breakfast at A&W. Tim, Jeff, and Sarah were there too. I called Kristin while I ate, and then was on my way.
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| Obligatory big truck photo. I tried a different angle. |
The route snaked through Sparwood and its local trails. It
was cool to see Sparwood beyond what you see from the highway. Then it was back
on the gravel. I thought most of the route between Sparwood and Elkford is the
Tour Divide Route so I was curious if I would recognise any of it. It looked a
bit familiar but, in this case, gravel roads looked like gravel roads.
As I was crunching along the gravel, I came upon another
rider who didn’t look familiar. “Who’s that guy?” I said in my head. It was Shaun
from South Africa (originally, now from Calgary)! I met him last year on the
AR500 Covid Edition. It was nice to chat again. He was having chain issues and
on one of the climbs, it snapped again, and we parted ways.
Then I found myself on some single track again. I didn’t
remember this from the Tour Divide. Yep, it was different. It was a nice short stretch
that ended at Elkford. I stopped at the store and Jocelyn was there. He mentioned
there was fresh fruit! No taquitos for me!! I got a $7 cup of strawberries and some
other drinks. Those were the best strawberries I ever had!
After Elkford, there was some more single track. I ran into another
rider who I met on the High Rockies Trail on day 1 but didn’t get his name. We
rode together for a very short while. Then he dropped me. After the short bit
of single track was now familiar gravel roads. I have ridden these a couple of
times. Kristin and I toured this a few years ago and I rode it for the Tour Divide.
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| Nap spot at a tree |
I was trying to find a good place I could get a good half an
hour of sleep but didn’t find anything. After my 2.5 hour sleep at night I didn’t
feel drowsy most of the day, but now it was starting to become more frequent. The
drowsiness was hitting about every 1-2 hours and I wanted to sleep a bit longer
so it would stop. I came to the point where the road crossed Elk River and saw
a nice tree to sleep under. I settled in hoping to sleep for a while. Just when
I got comfortable, an ant crawled in my ear. Nothing ruins a good nap than
having an insect in your ear canal. So, after clearing the intruder, I got back
on the bike.
When I talked to Kristin last, she mentioned it was getting rainy
in Canmore. I had not felt it yet up to this point, but it now started to
sprinkle. I knew I had to get to the top of Elk Pass, so didn’t want to put on
extra layers yet and overheat while climbing. It started to rain gradually more
and more, but still was not bad enough to put on more layers.
It’s funny sometimes what can motivate you on these rides. I
knew I eventually would come upon the Tobermory Cabin. I thought maybe I would have
a good sleep there and that would carry me through to the end. But something else
proved to be my motivation. As I was riding, my Garmin Edge beeped saying it was
no longer being charged! I had a power bank that I thought would power my Edge
until the end. My eTrex takes AAs so that device was not a concern, but the
Edge was what I was using to record my ride. And for those who use Strava, you
know if it’s not on Strava, it didn’t happen. Lol! I could always use my eTrex
to record the ride, but it’s so much easier on my Edge. So, my motivation now was
to finish the ride before the battery ran out on my Edge! The race was on!!
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| No nap for me! |
As I crested Elk Pass, the rain really started to fall. I put on my rain gear and refilled my feedbags with enough food until the end.
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| The last summit! |
I released my lockout and bombed down the descent in the
rain. Peter Lougheed Park came quickly and I could see the end in sight. There
was a wildfire near Skogan Pass so there was a reroute to go back along Smith
Dorrien Road. I was a bit disappointed that I would not see Skogan Pass, but I
was more happy that I only had to ride this gravel reroute in the pouring rain.
I cruised along the paved paths of Peter Lougheed like a
couple of days earlier and ate as much as I could… just like a couple of days earlier.
At one point I stopped for a little while to make sure I was taking the right way
in the paths. These paths all look the same to me even though I have ridden
them a few times. I saw the reroute earlier in the day but there is no cell service,
so I had to go from memory. I was glad it was simple to navigate.
I made my way to Smith Dorrien Road and started the home stretch
about dusk. It was pouring rain and getting colder, but I felt great! It was
strange! I had no body pain and loads of energy. I was hammering!
Night fell and it got even colder. My Edge showed about +4 °C.
It was amazing that just a couple of days ago I was sweating on this same road at
+30 °C. I was starting to fade and was losing hope that I would beat the race
with the dying Edge. It was at about 35% and steadily dropping, but I soldiered
on.
I started to get colder and decided I would put on some more
layers at the next sign of shelter, but shelter did not come soon enough. I
stopped out in the open and started rummaging in my bag for my warm clothes. I
fished out my beanie, buff, shell gloves, and arm warmers. It was raining too
hard for me to take off my raincoat, so I rolled up my sleeves and put the arm
warmers on. I had some chemical hand warmers too so I opened a pack and put them
in the arm warmers at my wrists under my raincoat so they would stay dry. After
what seemed like forever, I got back on the bike.
I was back to feeling warmer again. I kept pedalling hard to
keep the furnace going. It was neat feeling the warmth spreading from my chest into
my head and extremities. Maybe I would beat the dying Edge!
Then my final big obstacle of the race jammed a figurative stick
in my spokes. I suspect few will relate to this, but I have what is called prism
in my vision. One of my eyes shifts up compared to the other one which results
in double vision. It’s not usually an issue. My eyes naturally correct themselves
when I focus on something and there is no double image. But on this night in
the dark, in the rain, on the bumpy, white gravel of the Smith Dorrien, the double
vision hit me hard all of the sudden.
With about 20km to go, the double vision gradually got worse
and worse. That coupled with the hallucinations caused by sleep deprivation
made for a surreal ride back. The white, wet road illuminated by my lights would
split into a high and low image, so it felt like I was driving through a
tunnel. Then I would start to feel sleepy and drift into a dream world to the
point where I would have to stop and regain my bearings. I managed to find a
couple of outhouses on the way where I could take a quick nap. The nap would slightly
correct the double vision for a little while, but it would always come back.
I just kept moving forward. That’s the only way to finish.
My race with the dying Edge became a low priority. I finally approached the
steep descent into town, and it was at 1%. I still might beat the Edge! I crept
down the steep switchbacks with one eye closed. I had discovered with one eye
closed, the swirling double vision of white gravel and puddles could be kept to
a minimum. At one switchback the pouring rain had eroded narrow canals in the
road. My tire got caught and I hit the ground hard. My palms ground into the
gravel and with my hands being so cold, they lost feeling.
I picked myself and my bike up, closed my left eye, and
resumed my descent. Eventually I reached the pavement, then the lights of
Canmore. The double vision still was bad so I had a hard time finding my way
through town. I could not make the words out on the signs and could not
recognise the buildings. I snaked my way through downtown and surprisingly
found the finish line.
I heard some cheers and was elated that I actually made it
down that mountain. My loving wife Kristin and son Evan were there to greet me
at the finish. Steve also stuck around to greet me at the end. He rode so strong!
Thanks for being there!!
I checked my Edge and it was at 1%! By some miracle, I beat
the dying battery!! I went to stop the ride and my fingers didn’t’ work. I
called Evan over and he pushed the buttons that my fingers could not push.
Another AR700 in the books! Thanks for the route and
challenge, Jonathan!
2021 Alberta Rockies 700: 2 days 19
hours 35 minutes
7th place over all; 1st place single speed (of
1, lol)
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| All done! Photo by Steve O'Shaugnessy |
I knew I had to warm up and sort out my vision before I could safely ride again, so I showered and took a 45 min nap. Then about 6am, Kristin and I rode the Legacy Trail into Banff and back to Canmore for an additional 54km to finish this goal. As a nation, we have unfortunately done some horrible things in our history that we should never forget. They should never be forgotten so we never repeat the same mistakes in the future.
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| In memory of the 751 |
